Thursday, December 29, 2022

Poeticized Pallor: The Romanticized Victorian Ailment Aesthetic

19th CEntury Beauty Standards As Influenced By DEATHLY DECLINE

Pursual of the “en vogue” definition of a covetable female figure has rarely not involved some form of physical defilement, deformation, or other unhealthy modification —encouraged by a savage and unforgiving culture— be it an idealized, romanticized fever-state accompanied by sallow skin, ruby lips, protruding collarbone; neck-elongation of African tribes; or the ancient practice of Chinese foot-binding and with it barbaric female subordination. Certainly a precursor to "heroine-chic" or the glorification of such sickly appearances achieved through forms of eating disorders.

Tragic —even horrifying— and yet, as the attached article observes regarding a study on the Victorian glamorization of tuberculosis: “In making this harrowing illness into something aesthetically desirable, families could find some sense in a loss that felt too soon, too sudden, too meaningless.” Here, the review (as posted by Hyperallergic five years ago next week) of Carolyn A. Day's Consumptive Chic: A History of Beauty, Fashion, and Disease from Bloomsbury Academic.

Tuesday, November 22, 2022

Wonder-full

- Cover art of the novel, published six years ago, that inspired a recent Netflix adaptation from director Sebastián Lelio -
Last week when Netflix unveiled “The Wonder” I hastily assumed it would not be much to my  liking.  In skimming the movie's synopsis, I was a bit thrown by the rather overt, somewhat lazy creative decision to name the second lead Anna, given that she is a preteen girl demonstrating what might be described as a sort of obstinate, faith-driven “haunted Anorexia.”  (For those unaware, within eating disorder circles "Ana" or "Anna" is frequently coded language for an anthropomorphized version of one’s affliction, a fictionalized entity with which one endures a love/hate relationship.)  Secondly, the semi-abstract feature film is staged in the blighted and desolate rural moors of Victorian Ireland, which I unfairly perceived as another somewhat easy call in that it allows for the narrative to draw rather bold-faced symbolic reference to An Gorta Mor, or The Potato Famine.  

Translated colloquially as “The Great Hunger,” this was a famously brutal mid-18th century agricultural disaster responsible for the deaths of entire communities, to say nothing of embedded and lingering trauma.  Famously devout Christians, the Irish peoples have been seen throughout their history as adherents to a strict, near-radical branch of Catholicism, a faith that incorporates and reveres disturbing acts of martyrdom and voluntary, sacrificial flagellation.  With cursory research one might recall that self-starvation and fasting are a common theme in religion, universally lauded as a pious, noble form of deprivation because it is the sufferer’s decision.  Like renouncing sex or sleep, fasting is one of the ultimate forms of mind-over-matter corporeal restraint, in some cases even deemed worthy of sainthood.  That an 11-year-old child, one who obsessively ruminates on the characters of Biblical lore, is now the centerpiece marvel the titular “Wonder” in an almost egregiously pious family within a few years reach of famine, is not lost on the viewer.  


Where the film regained merit for me was in its spooky quality and ruminative pace, along with the uncertain message/intention of the central mystery.  With some forty-five minutes remaining in running time I still wasn’t sure where "The Wonder" was ultimately leading.  What  sadly enriched & intensified my viewing experience is knowing firsthand the horrible physical and mental agony of nutritional deprival, what with an eating disorder first launched in girlhood and presently flaring.  But when I consequently forgave (and gave into) the premise I found myself mesmerized.  The internal conflict I faced in rejecting my critic’s voice almost mirrors the strong but gradually fading skepticism of Florence Pugh’s central nurse.  She is originally hired to monitor Anna, whose family is suspected of staging the alleged “miracle” for fame & financial donations to their lamentably meager poor box, as benefitted by gawking, awestruck visitors.  I especially appreciated that she was an Englishwoman assigned to oversee an Irish patient's care but instructed to DO NOTHING, as this dynamic reflects the criminal lack of intervention and assistance by Great Britain’s parliament for its then-indentured colony during its time of crisis.  (To further strain the relationship, in the 19th century Irish tenant farmers were permitted few rights under England’s heartlessly restrictive Penal Laws, with the lasting resentment on pointed display in several exchanges of dialogue.)  


Pugh anchors it all with an unapologetic, take-charge resoluteness recalling the best of Kate Winslet, and I imagine she is in line for similar plaudits, if not A-list opportunities.  I was relieved that after just shy of two hours the gut-wrenching story arrived at a satisfying end without cheapening its vision.  What's more, I thought it was a thoughtful detail, perhaps (yet again) a bit heavy-handed, to have Anna *SPOILER ALERT* reinvent herself, near-death, as a whole new person she calls "Nan".  Not only is this a pointed rearrangement of her birth name but also, perhaps, serves as an intentional attempt to draw upon the Hindi meaning of the word.  For those unacquainted with Indian cuisine, nan is unleavened bread; that it is shaped like a teardrop provides yet another poetic inclusion.  (Certainly, it was not unintentional that Anna/Nan is “reborn” once she finally permits herself what appear to be the tiniest possible allowance of a softened wheat roll.)  Such creative decisions summon to mind other elegant and artful gothic prestige pictures as "Portrait of a Lady on Fire," "The Piano," "Manon of the Spring," "Howard’s End," and (most famously) "Jane Eyre" in its countless incarnations.


It is not until Pugh's long-overdue interrogation of her charge in the final act that Anna ultimately divulges to her trusted nurse-come-friend the reasoning that has thus far motivated her "gradual suicide".  When insistently (but compassionately) questioned, Anna confides that a prematurely deceased brother, Rupert, was her sexual abuser.  For the sin of sibling fornication he is punished in the afterlife to an everlasting torture for which she, as his partner and "bride", is personally responsible and alone capable of reversing.  “That’s what Hell is — it’s ceaseless,” she explains.  For those enduring anorexia —or struggling with a comparative barrier to adequate sustenance— our own Great Hunger can be similarly unrelenting.  I wish for so many the world over to be granted relief —if not release— in this life, or the next.

Sunday, October 23, 2022

“Snake-in-the-Glass”

(textured collage-painting, late-October 2022)

I dream of “creamy” with this tactile 12 in. x 9 in. surreal mixed-media composition featuring a jagged field of jet black glitter crystals over spray-painted hombre canvas, marbled washi tape edge, and vintage advertising imagery cemented in place using Mod Podge. A study in paint finishes — matte acrylic (as kept within the wine vessel) vs. glossy enamel.

Honestly *not* happy with a lot of this —and attempting to photograph its many flaws has nearly driven me to drinking!

Stay Kool with a fetching Baileys blonde as you best attempt to reclaim any sense of composure before Monday’s inevitable return. Here’s to chasing those elusive "weekend vibes"!

“Curves Engineered in A Lab”

(painting-collage, mid-October 2022)

I've been kickin’ back with science during our balmy autumn, represented in the tropical colors of this retro 11 in. x 14 in. mixed-media experiment, mounted on canvas with sparkle washi tape in dark asphalt grey (along with turquoise sequins and crunchy black glitter in corners, sealed using the usual Mod Podge)

Thursday, October 20, 2022

A Whole (Somewhat Adjusted) New World

More realistically rendering cartoon royalty

for a more inclusive representation of womanhood

in the fantasy roles we share with children

Disney princesses exist within and explore an abstract fairytale realm, one unapologetically branded and monetized to an impressionable audience.  Likewise could be said of subscribers to most social media platforms, particularly those such as youth-oriented TikTok.  It is therefore perhaps kismet that the discipline of fantasy animation and that recent online phenom should combine to offer a new slant on the these universally embraced characters, so often familiarized well beyond our glowing entertainment screens.  Children, girls in particular, are targeted by the far-reaching Mouse House establishment as consumers of delight-inducing, adolescent-friendly merchandise ranging from dolls to coloring books to bedsheets even those crude imitations of their iconic "looks" sold as home-play knockoffs.  Needless to say, they are ubiquitous ambassadors of aspirational stories supplying pleasure and moral instruction, yes, but also untold avenues of profit.  Again, the same might be written of successful app account operators, whether or not they exist at the level of professional influencer, casual participant, or (more accurately) monetized cog.  Not having ever ventured down the rabbit hole of that particular virtual destination, I instead came across a recent feature posted by contributor Sara Barnes to arts & culture website MY MODERN MET, one that cleverly addressed a consistently troubling aspect of the character series:  their distorted, almost always unachievable (but nonetheless aspirational) definition of physical beauty.  Barnes draws pun intended attention to how one popular digital illustrator, Wyethe Smallish, is currently using her Apple Pencil to revise these famously "svelte physiques," lending them revised proportions.  "The figures are more filled out, stronger, and overall more relatable to the everyday viewer," she appreciatively observes.

While ironic that the profiled artist's last name translates to (of all things) diminutive size, the notion of presenting achievable, quasi-realistic silhouettes for fans of the genre has found just the right voice in Smallish.  She explains that in growing up with the original designs, she admired their stories but was troubled by their cookie-cutter proportions, which left her feeling excluded, if not dare I say it less magical.  Certainly, that is no way for any person, of any age, to be made to feel and directly antithetical to the *supposed* mission of the Walt Disney company.  "I receive messages every day saying how these images have helped heal their inner child," the illustrator shares.  I, for one, can testify that first beholding Ariel of The Little Mermaid at an impressionable seven years stoked an unhealthy childhood desire to fit the body mold depicted, if not also the character of a curious, thoughtful, ambitious, somewhat independent modern heroine, with or without animal anthropomorphized animal sidekick.  I was later a bit too old to pay Mulan much heed or consideration, but today I applaud the notion of lending that selfless Chinese female warrior, who volunteered into combat service lest her father be enrolled, the sort of strong arms necessary for battle  or, in Cinderella's case, cleaning.


Thursday, October 6, 2022

“Unfurled Swirls Surround (A Rumpled Punch-Pink Gown)”

On a high —thread count— immersed in tropical colors

OF NOTE: The turquoise blue heavy silk and matching roses were from a particularly remarkable ensemble worn by the recently-departed Queen Elizabeth II on the day of Princess Margaret's 1960 wedding, captured in a portrait by royal photographer Cecil Beaton and subsequently recreated for The Crown Season 2.

14 in. x 11 in. collage mounted on canvas with sparkle washi tape edge, applied and sealed using Mod Podge

Tuesday, August 30, 2022

"The Immortal Ms. Mortenson"

Sixty Years Gone, But Never to Seed

12 in. x 12 in. collage on black canvas with metallic washi tape side trim and minor use of acrylic paint, sealed using Mod Podge
Tomorrow marks twenty-five years after Princess Diana’s tragic passing, but I wanted to pay tribute to a different “Candle In The Wind” before The People’s Princess became the trending headline. (Did you know that August 31st is also National Overdose Awareness Day?) Of course, I realize it is a massive cliché to eulogize Marilyn Monroe, but I couldn’t help but think of her this month with continuing reverence, given the sixty years marked since her fatal overdose. I’ve been wanting to make something with pomegranates, given their symbolism with the underworld. Oddly enough, some printing error or smudge makes it appear as if she has a black eye or running mascara, appropriate given what we know of her tumultuous personal life. She is forever an icon, unrivaled and beloved.
#nationaloverdoseawarenessday

Monday, August 1, 2022

Bullying The Bulimic, Antagonizing The Anorexic — And Educating The Audience


Two recent depictions of the binge-and-purge cycle, both graphic and set in decades of the (somewhat) recent past, combined with a network sitcom featuring a very possible anorexic (self-described “picky eater”), illustrate how trapped a person with disordered eating can feel when pressured to consume excessive amounts, be they unnecessary and uncalled for or merely perceived as such.

No one should ever be made to feel forced to eat beyond an appropriately-rationed, rationAL need. It’s to me a major red flag in a relationship — a vigorously-waving indicator that begs the question of WHY the food is seen as a requirement in the given circumstances and whether it is being leveraged, possibly weaponized. First, is there even a desire to participate by everyone involved? And what is the intention? If the answers to these questions are “yes, it is enjoyed by all” and, to the second, that eating in the given case is in response to a simple metabolic need (i.e. energy to sustain, a naturally occurring, universal requirement so often miscast as a weakness), then it’s generally safe to proceed without second thought.

As we are taught intuitively from the day we are born, semi-regular caloric nourishment, at minimum, is a requirement of the human animal and necessary in our body’s upkeep. This should not be a source of guilt perceived as an indicator of “good” or “bad” behavior, of virtuous restraint or sinful indulgence. Yet, so often the act is loaded with the added baggage of observed ritual (prime example being holidays and other traditions of cultural significance), elevating the process to something so much more. An essential, inherently basic animal behavior gets elevated, rising it above raw quotidian level. Yes, it is in many ways a valiant gesture to tie eating with some other context, to instill it with greater meaning, an appreciation and mindfulness perhaps of metaphoric significance. Some might argue that doing so is an important aspect of what separates us from other sentient creatures. But when we ALWAYS aggrandize food —and its power to reliably provide both physical and emotional response (an essentially change, be it in weight, mood, energy, strength, or mere blood sugar regulation)— something once so simple becomes so much more. Now it is an unshakable preoccupation. An art form at best, obsession at worst; you become only comfortable with/capable of an established pattern and approach. Whether you are sticking to this regimented routine with an unhealthy degree of inflexibility is determined by your response should anyone or anything threaten to disrupt the dining norm(s) you view as “safe.” With food —and the behaviors connected to consuming it— a precious and unrivaled priority, ability and willingness to adapt —be it for one meal or many— is now a fairly accurate gauge of how much your adherence to routine is ruling over and determining your schedule, holding you back from surviving in alternate situations (should they arise). Whomever, or whatever, challenging you to “change things up” now wields immeasurable power, which you likely and understandably resent because it is different and strange and therefore uncomfortable, mentally and/or physically. For those with less of an immutable stance on this issue, such a “holiday” from the norm is a welcomed event because it offers to spice up life when it has become boring routine, representing something different, fun, even special. When we are asked to engage in a way of eating that for some reason causes distress, it comes to communicate who has control in the situation, although the very meal itself has more symbolic power than either of its preparer or receiver.

If one is fortunate enough to count on a galley of sensitive and understanding friends, relatives, and, often, doctors, a person’s fragile sense of security in regards to disrupted eating patterns will be approached gently and handled nimbly, perhaps through education, so as to reduce hostility from those requiring intervention. Unfortunately, be they cruel or clueless (or a bit of both), the party aiming to metaphorically, if not literally, stir a new pot can become perceived as a meddling “enemy” of the lifestyle most adhered to and now threatened. For when eating is controlled with thought and carefully premeditated preferences, it helps us form an identity as a certain “type” of person within a tribe of the like-minded, often of those who fancy or renounce similar fare, thus distinguishing our place in uncertain world by way of joining-in with a culture and recognized delineation. To challenge that sense of selfhood it to potentially upset a person’s entire worldview —and sense of secure footing within it. When one’s approach to food carries such pronounced ramifications upon disruption, it is extremely likely that you are living, to a functioning degree or not, within the confines of an eating disorder. And whether recognized or not, whoever controls the eating operations within that life is to yield ultimate authority.

With this in mind, imagine what could constitute a nightmare scenario for those so controlling over —and thus controlled by— what they eat. Last year’s Oscar-nominated Spencer, headlined by an uncanny Kristen Stewart, is an abstract two-hour portrait of Princess Diana’s final Christmas holiday spent within England’s Royal Family before seeking marital separation. Rather than a conventional, straight drama, it is nuanced and layered with many elements traditional to the abstract horror picture. In the quarter-century that has unfolded since her untimely and tragic death, it has widely become common knowledge that Diana —ever an icon of fashion and the gold standard for an English beauty— struggled immensely with bulimia. What could possibly be more terrifying for an individual afflicted with such an agonizing condition than being scrutinized on the world stage by not only one’s stuffy, unsympathetic in-laws (an extended clan who happen to also represent your country’s most powerful dynasty) but also by a sea of Royal Watchers transfixed by and obsessed with every detail of your life? Then imagine being rigidly observed at a lavish, grandiose, and unavoidably mandatory catered affair in which it is made clear that there will be enough ongoing engorgement, from Christmas Eve through Boxing Day, to gain a minimum of three pounds by all included? And to further seal the deal, in keeping with “tradition,” every guest shall be weighed by staff, ex-military, before and after coming to the Sandringham country estate, itself remotely located and difficult to escape? (There, even the window blinds are to be stapled shut.) This is the claustrophobic nightmare Chilean director Pablo Larraín proposes in this recent quasi-biopic. The shaming by her husband, Prince Charles (a taciturn Jack Farthing), is certainly callous enough without the additional pressure of The Queen Mum. Based on true accounts, he venomously suggests that Diana should for once keep her bulimia at bay out of respect for the chickens who laid her morning eggs: “They all made such an effort to bring you breakfast. Please do them the courtesy of not regurgitating it all into a lavatory bowl before the church bells ring."

Later on, she apologizes to the chief chef for not trying a soufflé prepared especially for her, adding: "It would only have been wasted on me anyway." This can be compared with a telling statement provided to manipulative BBC reporter Martin Bashir in the bombshell program An Interview with HRH The Princess of Wales, a seated one-on-one that aired in late-November 1995 to 1/3 of UK households: "You have to know that when you have bulimia you're very ashamed of yourself and you hate yourself, so—and people think you're wasting food—so you don't discuss it with people." In her most secret and isolated private moments it is suggested by the screenplay that Diana comes to see herself in the company of Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII’s second wife who he beheaded and moved on from with a series of several others, most immediately Jane Seymour. In Spencer we see Diana acknowledge the lingering presence of Charles’ ex Camilla, who she dubs “Jane Seymour”, implying that she will be similarly replaced. I doubt it is a coincidence that “Boleyn” sounds so close to “bulimia,” as it is not unusual for those seriously entwined with an eating disorder to refer to their affliction as if a close companion, assigning nicknames as in “Anna” (for anorexia) or “Bella” (in the case of bulimia). Weirdly enough, Kristen Stewart first achieved fame as heroine Bella Swan in the Twilight movie saga.

This notion of an ED as an “other” who has a separate voice and character from its host is one of the most noticeable narrative choices of the darkly-comic Apple+ series Physical, which only this Friday wraps its sophomore year on the streamer. In this half-hour dramedy, set in the early 1980s San Diego, we follow the perspective of beautiful and impossibly fit housewife Sheila Rubin (Rose Byrne) who, for most of the 19 episodes-and-counting, is a closeted and mercilessly self-critical bulimic with a raging aerobic exercise addiction. (As implied by the series’ name, the latter is something she then harnesses in the spirit of Jane Fonda or Richard Simmons to star in commercially trafficked, spandex-and-neon workout videos for the then-burgeoning VHS market.) The internal dialogue we hear in her head is brutal —all scathing put-downs and sarcastic asides, barbs intended for not only herself but the (many) people she loathes, including her clueless, narcissistic husband.

Some reviewers may not see much humor in this setup, but I, for one, can relate. In truth, I am not myself a binge-eater, although the last meal of my day is what would be considered large, perhaps even extravagant, prompting me to dine privately, sequestered, out of self-consciousness and shame. I do not purge in the form of vomiting, but instead “redeem” my caloric intake with nonnegotiable daily power-walks, which I am now significantly dialing-back (much to the frustration of my at times scathing internal critic). Honestly, if I had the strength, fury, and resolve to shadow Sheila’s advanced level of exercise devotion I might, but after 3/4 of a lifetime listening to my ED voice I am now focusing on other priorities, being physically and emotionally spent. Towards the second half of Season 2 Sheila’s bulimia is found out and she pursues treatment measures —mostly to appease her husband and mounting fandom, each “betrayed” by her projected, branded image as a female paragon of confidence & health. And so the fledgling aerobics guru begrudgingly drags herself into a cozy and holistic rehab clinic for eating disorders, mostly submitting to its recovery process for surface-level appearances that placate those who, in truth, she internally resents. Time will tell (or at least we’ll hopefully learn in a third season) whether Sheila found legitimate benefit in this not-entirely-voluntary decision, for it was unquestionably an overdue intervention. Nevertheless, we do witness sage advice administered there that even she cannot help but pause and yield to. In a telling aside, the program director Luanne, herself in recovery, shares an observation to the collected patient company that eerily reflects Princess Di’s BBC admission: “You know what’s cruel about this mental disorder? It’s that there’s nothing anyone could have said to you, however vile, that you haven’t already said to yourself.”

That being said, what other people say can of course still sting. Take, for example, what we observe in ABC’s mockumentary-style half-hour comedy Abbott Elementary. You might expect with a name like that that children at this Philadelphia public school would be the ones doing any taunting, but the twist here is that we follow the crew of adults employed there —along with any juvenile behavior or emotions they may at times mirror. Albeit intended to be funny, I was made a tad uncomfortable by the staff’s response upon learning that lean, stoic, and regimented first-grade substitute teacher Gregory (Tyler James Williams) did not want to participate in a communal meal break involving each staff member’s pizza-of-choice. In Episode 9 (“Step Class”), Greg is taunted and shamed when he declines to indulge along with everyone else in these various styles of pie, and even put on the spot at one point to sample the “Baltimore” variety after he scrambles to name a type he prefers. In truth, none of these he wants anything to do with, and thus misses out on the bonding experience that, like so many in life, revolve around what dish is being served. (I can recall a similar situation from my own past, roughly thirty years ago, when the other students in a fourth or fifth grade field trip elected to stop into Kentucky Fried Chicken where, unlike McDonalds in later years, there were no salad options beyond a thick, fatty coleslaw. I *may* have picked the skin off a fried breast and tried my best, but I still recall the anxiety and isolation and disappointment of not feeling heard or seen.) As for Greg, his peers jeer and dismiss him with “you don’t like food,” addressing him with “Hey, weird eater!” In Physical, a rough-edged bully character at the Episode 9 rehab dismisses a malnourished patient’s opinion who is trying to discuss Sheila’s recovery by writing her off as someone whose meals consist of zero-calorie condiments, and thus of no to little authority on healing: "You eat mustard packets for dinner. What do you know about healthy?" The mousy anorexic immediately pipes down and of course becomes acquiescent in response. Conversely, the response from Gregory is more typically defensive. Feeling cornered and attacked, he raises his voice in natural objection: “It’s not my fault! I was born like this!” Now alienated, this otherwise confident person resorts to eating a bland lunch of boiled chicken alone in his car, the cameras trained on him also revealing he takes robotic bites while doing sit-ups in the reclined front seat. “I have four or five things that I like and I stick to those,” he tells the anonymous film crew. “It feels like a personal attack.” While such intake inflexibility and compulsive exercising is certainly characteristic of a disordered eater, I cannot claim to know for sure if he is genuinely, certifiably anorexic and preoccupied with food and fitness to the level of unhealthy obsession. Instead, more likely, he is reflecting the self-discipline adopted after being reared on a military-style regimen by his strict, commanding father —who he refers to as “Sir” and is briefly shown to be recognizably cutting, insensitive, unsupportive, and authoritarian in their shared video calls. More obvious is how Gregory’s food dislikes are used as an effective narrative shorthand to express how much he is coyly crushing on Abbott Elementary’s upbeat second-grade instructor Janine (Quinta Brunson, also the series creator) as the episode closes on him being open to “getting pizza” with her, which the audience now knows is a strong personal dislike, something even possibly feared.

Both Physical and Spencer depict the wretched agony of a heroine when she is similarly put on the spot, at not only friendly gatherings but —most especially— when pressured to take part in consuming decadent celebratory desserts. In the latter, it is a Christmas soufflé; in the former, the rich chocolate birthday cake of her clingy acquaintance/not-quite-friend Greta just beyond midpoint of the second season. (Greta, it is worth noting, is herself overweight and therefore off-putting to Sheila, who secretly sneers at her appearance, if not pities her for her evident lack of control.) “Is this what drowning feels like?” the caustic voice in her head deadpans to the viewer. If the torture of eating against one’s compliance is not spelled-out enough in these occasions, Spencer also includes a dinner scene when Diana imagines ripping off the sizable pearls that Charles has flatly bestowed upon her (having simultaneously gifted the same necklace to his mistress Camilla, which she is aware of) and slurping them down, painfully, with her pea-green bisque. In Physical, the real panic for Sheila arrives when her clueless husband Danny teases her about “fattening her up” while she is on forced bedrest after emergency surgery for a twisted ovary. He goes as far as to also express his desire for her to have another child with him, further adding to her deep-seated fears of weight gain and being restricted (per medical advice) from further aerobic activity, at least during the period of healing. Both women are being told to do something they don’t want for their body. In fact, in one excruciatingly tense scene set in the Sandringham billiards room, Charles ventures so far as to tell the woman he (begrudgingly) married: “You have to make your body do things you hate.” The implied subtext here that he very well might be referring to is that he must engage in the off-putting task of having sexual relations with Diana, but for her it is also about cooperating with —if (not more accurately) submitting to— the Christmas family feasting. The film draws parallels between her, in so many ways tied down, and the domesticated wildfowl shot for sport on the estate, which are kept from escaping too far by their clipped wings. Ironically, Spencer includes a passing moment from the Queen’s annual Christmas Day television address, in which she encourages her subjects to celebrate having “broken free of dictatorship." For both Diana, the “People’s Princess,” and Shiela, the public face of a popular exercise program, being trapped is being asked to no longer find comfort and freedom in their bulimic behaviors. The world never got a chance to learn if William & Harry's mother overcame her affliction, having perished at the tender age of thirty-six before realizing her full potential. For Sheila Rubin, of course, there could yet still be the opportunity. That is, should Apple+ grant us a Season 3.

Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Getting Nowhere, Fast

--- An eyebrow-raising online banner ad promoting yet another restriction meal plan serves to illustrate  contemporary culture's continuing endorsement of absurdly impossible standards for the consummate model of female fitness ---

In mid-November of 2014 I labored over a blog essay, one of my longest, dissecting the bizarrely-proportioned physical ideal popularly considered en vogue, as furthered by the Kardashian example along with our traditional appreciation, endorsement, pursuit, and sale of an approximation to an hourglass figure.  Diet culture as we know thrives on pushing a rarely (if ever) achievable body shape and size -- something wholly unnatural and thus in reality only realized through surgery, Photoshop, constrictive shapewear, disordered eating, very very "good" genes, or some combination of the lot.  Well, today, in casually browsing the web on my iPhone, I couldn't help but pause mid-article to capture a screenshot of a promotional link, rather clumsily illustrated, for the latest guarantee of a body fix-all, INTERMITTENT FASTING.  Manipulating hunger cues is of course nothing new, as far as a well-known food deprivation system for controlling one's pounds.  After all, back in 1965 the world's then-number one (if only) fashion doll, Barbie, arrived in a "Slumber Party" version with miniaturized diet books and pink bathroom scale, set forever in plastic at 110.
Nearly sixty years later that strategy hasn't really evolved much, or the numbers involved, despite somewhat more nuanced reading of BMI (Body Mass Index).  Unfortunately for all genders at this point, losing weight isn't enough of a battle anymore.  "Just" being thin doesn't cut it, so-to-speak.  Rather, one's remaining heft, while limited, is expected to be molded into sculpted cantaloupe-shaped breasts and ass (for females) or muscular apple-calves (for men), with xylophone midsections, toned-yet-graceful arms, Pixar-animated eyes, and pillowy lips for really whatever sex you might identify within, if at all.  I'll be so bold as to presume that this is yet another near-impossible set of standards that has evolved to keep us forever trapped in a consumer's dilemma of perpetual self-dissatisfaction and striving.  We will always be hooked-and-baited into throwing our money towards whatever trick (for most immediate results), or longer-term lifestyle system (for more comprehensive and carefully financed makeovers) that should most convincingly guarantee our #glowup moment.  And with that being said, I present the offending ad.  

And, yes, I was in fact reading about Madonna's children.

Monday, July 25, 2022

Commencing Countdown, Engines On...

...or, more to the point, gowns on!

Despite having had made no legitimate contribution to anything of significance produced at the time —that is, aside from copious soiled diapers and spoiled nights for my parents I consider it with great pride to count myself among the products of 1982, be it film to fashion to music.  My mind first runs to the many illuminated screens captivating America, be it theater-wide with surround sound or living-room-small and dual-speaker.  At immediate reference come affectingly bleak, game-changing fantasies Blade Runner, The Dark Crystal, and The Last Unicorn; in our homes the launch of Cheers, David Letterman’s The Late ShowSiskel and Ebert’s approachable At The Movies, and, blessedly, the final musical routines of Lawrence Welk's gasping-along, increasingly out-of-ouch revue hour.  (Of course, the kitsch quota on TV would be resupplied tenfold by the introduction of David Hasselhoff's ridiculous Knight Rider and —capping its sophomore outing— the continuing, weirdly captivating histrionics of the OG Dynasty.)  Cresting over the radio waves would have been new tracks by Duran Duran —the coolest band to ever reference Barbarella— alongside the best of Men At Work and charismatically chameleonic David Bowie.  Meanwhile, on the actual, post-disco dance arena, no less than Madonna herself was rocketing to NYC club success with her plucky debut single, "Everybody," succeeding Debbie Harry's Blondie which would disband after the release of the group's sixth studio album.  Lady Madge’s sweeping influence upon the decade’s look would be unparalleled by few others, although there is equal argument for properly recognizing the shoulder-padded diva-du-jour Joan “Alexis” Collins, if not those legwarmer pioneers within the urban dance troupes, also of New York, populating “Fame” —be it in the 1980 film version or its successful 1982 spinoff, serialized for TV and of the same name.  And of course there is the aforementioned Ziggy Stardust a.k.a. The Thin White Duke a.k.a. future goblin king.

I am compelled to submit these thoughts this evening because today began my one-month countdown to turning the intimidating age of forty.  Thus far, in loosely planning for the event, I’m considering the resurrection of this Studio 54-worthy, rather appropriately named NEWLEAF by Samir fan-pleated mermaid gown.  The garment, seen below, is not from 1982 per se —internet sleuthing proves it reached maximum exposure closer to 1986 when no less than Vanna White, then the perfect likeness of glitzy pageantry, donned a shorter version on the cover of PEOPLE Magazine in what was known by the manufacturer simply as "Style 9870."  Nevertheless, it’s evocative of the era and has thus far been really only collecting dust in my closet —along with, I imagine, moths were it not of a slinky metallic acetate!  It’s probably my favorite of the dresses I currently own, having been once-upon-a-summer purchased on eBay when I was young and naïve enough to believe I’d ever see a need to command Hollywood-level glamour or attention.  (Incidentally, according to a post found on the blog Alluring Marilyn.com circa early 2015, at that season’s Golden Globes actress Jessica Chastain and singer Lana Del Rey were both spotted in the sort of “knife-pleated lamé” once conceived as a glistening golden halter-neck body-hugger for Marilyn Monroe by her good friend and costume designer William Travilla.  As reported by this source, Del Rey was in fact donning a vintage Travilla design that night, while Chastain was in Versace, although easily mistakable for the same.)

In all honesty, I'm not sure if I will feel the need, confidence, or sheer ambition to ever publicly display myself in the "Travilla-via-Vanna" knock-off, but I’d like to think that I indeed WILL before my milestone year reaches its final hours on August 25th, 2023, should I still be "around."  And If for whatever reason I should shuffle off this mortal coil I respectfully request to be buried in it, or else burned —despite the likely toxic fumes and stale nicotine musk of that particular synthetic garment.  And now with all that having been stated for online consumption, I am officially saluting the class of '82, be they graduates of the crib (such as myself) or of the strongest threads in the polyester acetate-type fabric of early-'80s pop culture.

Sunday, July 24, 2022

"Sweetheart Jazz Solo"

 - A tribute to Gina Ekiss -

23 1/2 in. x 18 in. abstract geometric painting featuring reproduction sketch portrait from “Heads From Life: Charcoal, Crayon, Pencil” (Walter T. Foster, published 1930) comprising of shredded paper collage of torn magazine pages, iridescent & matte spray paint, acrylic & latex house paint, black glitter, adhesive (both Mod Podge and glue stick) on stretched canvas — an adapted piece from August 2019

For context, you can Google the key words in my title to see info on this woman’s iconic motif, initially conceived in 1989 but released thirty years ago in 1992 by the Sweetheart Cup Company, (subsequently purchased by Solo, who made it unmissable packaging). As I commented to my sister earlier upon her surprised reaction that Ekiss has been rightfully identified, albeit only as a belated afterthought (such as in Entrepreneur seven summers ago), it's certainly one of those styles, reportedly a top-selling stock design, so recognizable to that era -- like shoulder pads, sequins, Hammer pants, teased bangs, high-waisted jeans (often acid-washed), snap-bracelets, or the Flying Toasters screensaver. It represents a rare, positive use of Internet sleuthing and a happy ending, although I don't believe royalties were ever shared by the manufacturer. But at the very least this designer's work is properly credited and gaining revived attention by Millennials, so appreciative of the late-nineteen-eighties and early-nineties that almost any once-dated pop culture fashion element from two to three decades ago now threatens to be resurrected, wryly but also often with genuine affection. And that it was called "Jazz" -- as opposed to, say, "Turquoise Crayon Scrawl" or "California Summer Breeze" -- makes it all the more fitting AND hilarious. I can imagine it stretched across a figure-skating leotard in an Ice Capades routine, perhaps a choreographed moving display featuring Tonya Harding or one of her equally tacky brethren...